So it's been a while. That's really all I can say life has caught up with me and I haven't had time to write but here's a new story since with my other ones I can't seem to get the plot bunnies from eating the paper and running away. Anyway disclaimer I don't own Stoked or Blue Crush which this is slightly based off of. So like it or hate it here it is.
Chapter one: Home
Dolphin's Cove, home to some of the best waves in the world and host of some of the fiercest surfing competitions. With the coves unique shape and reef people flock here for some wicked rides but these waves are not for beginners. Nope. Even the pros get worked by these waves. Which is what happened to me and I am no pro. These waves are also what caused me to fear surfing and lose my mother.
Maybe I should start from the beginning my name is Wilhelmina "Mina" Smith I'm 18 years old and I used to be one of the best up and coming surfers in Canada, at least that's what people where saying. They were even saying that I would go pro before I graduated high school. Well let's just say that didn't happen. I never really considered myself that great of a surfer, yeah I won competitions when I was competing but really I was just out there having fun with it, that's what my mom taught me.
My Mom was Heather Louis, she was very pretty with tanned skin with freckles, long light brownish red hair and green eyes. I look just like her accept for my eyes, which are blue because of my Dad, Paul Smith, he's has the whole Clark Kent look going for him even has the same job, not being a superhero but a journalist. They got married very young and ended up getting a divorce a few years after I was born. They didn't divorce because they were unhappy or were fighting a lot they just came to the realization that they loved each other but they weren't in love with each other, and they thought that there was someone else out there for them. They kept on good terms with one another though the years and we all spent the holidays together. I went back and forth between them until my Dad moved away because of a job and I couldn't switch houses and still go to the same school. I chose to live with my Mom because we were sill in the town I grew up, and they thought it was best. I still saw him on weekends and holidays, and we stayed close.
Two years ago my mom and I were surfing Dolphins Cove. It was particularly heavy that day but the sets were perfect and people where still there surfing so we didn't see any problem. We had good rides all day, yeah we wiped out once or twice but we both were able to get back on our boards and paddle back out. On our last rides of the day disaster struck.
A storm was starting to roll in and most people had left the beach because the waves were getting too heavy. I took the first wave and had a great ride, the best ride of the day, and made it back to shore. I waited for my mom to catch her last wave. I saw her turn her board and start to paddle. The wave came up and she dropped down on it, taking the wave like she always did. It started off great she was in the curl of the wave it seemed to be her best ride I'd seen in a long time. Then all of a sudden she disappeared in the curl I was expecting her to come out but then the wave came crashing down.
Now my mom was the best surfer I knew, she taught me everything I know. I thought she would come back up like she always did. She had wiped out many times and no matter what she always came back up, I thought she was invincible. This time was different though.
She wasn't coming back up. A few seconds seemed like hours and the next thing I knew I was in the water paddling out looking for her. Her board surfaced and I swam towards it, but once I reached it I found nothing. I began to panic and kept looking around trying to get a glimpse of her in the dark water below. I was to busy searching for her that I wasn't paying attention to anything else particularly the waves.
A huge wave blind sided me and I was under the water not sure which way was up or down. I somehow made it back to the surface only to get a breath full of air when another wave hit me. I tried to make my way back up for air and when I did I felt a sharp pain in my back and head. Then everything went black.
I woke up to a blinding light in the hospital with my dad at my bed side. He was so glad I was awake. When I asked him what happened, he told me that I must have hit the sharp rocks when I went under and I hit my head and scraped up my back. A passing surfer saw me, pulled me to shore and called an ambulance. It took me a moment to remember why I had been in the water then it dawned on me. Where was mom? Why was Dad here when he lived in a different city?
When I asked him he looked at me with sad, teary, eyes. He told me after the ambulance arrived to get me a woman washed up on shore. The paramedics tried to revive her but it was too late. That woman was my mother.
My mind didn't process what he said at first. Then it hit me like a ton of bricks. I began to cry, long and hard. I vaguely remember my Dad putting his arm around me trying to comfort me. I was able to calm down a little and a doctor came in to check on me. It was then I realized how much my back and head hurt. It turns out that I was bleeding profusely when I was found and I had to be bandaged up. Luckily I was told no real damage had come to my head just a concussion but my back had a big gash and it would scar.
I was in the hospital for about a week, then after we had my Mom's funeral. I don't remember much of that week or the funeral. Just that I cried a lot and a few unrecognizable relatives stopped by. The funeral was small it was just me, my dad, a few relatives and my two best friends Ocean Evans and Amelia Heart.
The following week my Dad and I tried to clean out Mom and my house with the help of Ocean and Amelia. After a few days, however, we realized we couldn't do it just yet. Dad and I resolve that we would just stay here until I graduated from high school. He could still work from where we were because most of his work was free lance. And that's been our life ever since.
"And now for the morning surf report! It's only 6 am and the waves are already looking great out there today. Looks like it's going to be double overhead out on Orange Beaches, and -" I hit my alarm radio off and tossed my light blue comforter off of me. 6 am was not my ideal time to get up but I was in training I needed to get as many waves as possible.
I got out of bed and quickly put on my black bikini, red rash guard shirt and black and grey striped board shorts. Grabbing my phone I hit number one on speed dial as I left my room and went to the kitchen to raid the frig.
"Mm huh? Hello?" A groggy voice asked me on the other end.
"Ocean, wake up!"
"Mina… to early… sleep…" then I heard soft snores coming from the other end.
"Oh really too early," I said smirking, "It's double over head."
I heard a thud through the phone, then Ocean's awake and alert voice, "I'm up! I'll meet you in 10." I hung up the phone grabbing a mug from the cabinet and poured myself a cup of coffee from the premade pot.
"Early surf session?" I turned to see my Dad sitting at the kitchen table with his morning cup of coffee and the paper.
"You know it!" I said smiling, "Gotta get ready for that big surf competition in August."
My Dad smiled back getting up from the table, "Just like your mother. Can't you be like normal people your age and sleep in till noon."
"Early fish catches the wave," I said taking a bit out of the apple.
He put his coffee cup in the sink and grabbed his stuff for work, "I know. I just don't want you to over work yourself."
"I know Dad, but this is my last day to surf here before I come back in August and I want to make it count," I smiled grabbing my keys and following him out the door.
"Okay, just be careful, I'll see you tonight," my Dad told me getting into his old white mustang.
"I will, Dad. I'll see you later!" I said waving. He waved back and drove off down the dirt road that lead to the main road from the house.
A few minutes after he left, a lime green VW Bus with wood panels drove down the dirt road and stopped in front of the house. A girl with long wavy blond hair and sun glasses stuck her head out of the driver's side window. "Hey did you call me this morning so we could just stand around or are we goanna catch some waves!"
"Oh look who's up now you didn't even wanna get up till I said double overhead," I yelled at Ocean grabbing my white surfboard from the porch and secured it on top of the bus. I got in the passenger seat, "So where's Amelia?" I asked as Ocean drove back down the dirt road turning right onto the main road.
"Here," I heard a weak voice from the back of the bus. I turned to look and a Latina girl with her dark hair pulled back sat up from her laid down position in the back.
"Long night at the diner?" I asked.
"You have no idea," She laid back down closing her brown eyes.
I smiled at her, "Don't worry about it. We're gonna catch some nice big waves and all your troubles will go away."
She laughed from her position on the floor, "Well look whos back to her old surf stoke, took you long enough."
"Hey I've always had the surf stoke I just needed a break is all."
"Yeah well just make sure your heads on right," Amelia said, "I don't need you drowning or missing waves." I glared at her a little but dropped the subject; I wasn't in the mood to fight with her about my surfing.
We finally made it to the Orange Beach and the small parking lot was beginning to fill. We found a spot quickly, although Ocean had to beat out a few other cars aiming for the same spot, but as we've learned, as well as others on the beach, don't mess with the lime thinking it's a lemon cause it's really a coconut. Ocean's saying not mine but it has proven true. She has been in so many accidents that would have totaled other car and this bus has come out without a scratch. So it's a lime that people think is a lemon but it's really as tuff as a coconut.
"Haha don't mess with the lime in the coconut!" Ocean cheered.
"Yeah, yeah you got a spot now let's get out there and surf! This is Ellie's last day to surf here before she leaves and I want it to count," Amelia said before opening the back door and getting out.
"What's up with her?"
"She's just sad I'm leaving. Now come on lets catch some waves!"
"Woohoo! Let's do this!"
Amelia stuck her head in back in the van, "Come on ladies! We don't have all day."
The surf was perfect that day and I had one of the best surf sessions since the accident. Amelia was taking one last wave of the day as Ocean and I waited for her on the beach.
"So I've been meaning to ask, why has Amelia been after you so much about your surfing? I mean you seem to be doing fine to me. You're back in the water and surfing like you used to pretty much. There have been a few mental blocks along the way but things seem to have worked out."
I sighed, "She just wants me to do well, Ocean. I think she sees this great surfer in me that could out surf the world if I wanted to. At least that's what she told me once. I personally don't see it and just because I have this competition in August doesn't mean I'm that good."
Ocean sighed, "But you are a great surfer! And this competition was an invite only one! Of course that means you're good."
"Yeah I guess," I was tired of talking about it, despite all of my hard work I still had trouble in big swells. I still remember the day of the accident and my back still gives me a dull ache when a storm was rolling in.
Amelia had finished her ride and walked up to us on the beach, "Alright I think I'm good for today. You guys ready to go?" we nodded and headed towards the bus.
Halfway through the drive back I noticed we weren't doing in the direction of m house, "Hey where are we going?"
"Oh you'll see," Said Amelia.
"Yeah we have a little going away present for you," Ocean said as she pulled into Amelia's family's diner.
"Guys what did you do?" I asked as they dragged me towards the diner.
"You'll see," they said together.
They pulled me into the dark diner and suddenly the lights flipped on and a shout of 'Surprise' reached my ears. They had organized surprise going away party for me with everyone we knew. "Aw guys thanks this means a lot!" I smiled a great big smile at them and hugged them both.
"Hey they aren't the only ones who helped plan this," my Dad said walking up to us.
"Thanks Dad," I hugged him as well.
"And the party isn't your only surprise," my Dad grabbed to gifts from a table and handed them to me, "These are so you can keep in touch with us while you're away."
I quickly opened the gifts to reveal a new laptop and a camera, "I love them, thanks!"
"No problem," my dad said smiling at me, "Now let's get this party started!" I laughed as someone turned up the music. This was a great send off for the summer and it felt good to see all of my friends and family before I left. I just hoped that once I left I could get my feet back on the ground for the competition.